Thursday, December 31, 2009

Deutschland

I've started my semester abroad in a more familiar place than expected. Hamburg looks similar to when I left three years ago, but that's not to say that it hasn't changed. The city looks beautiful, conserved by the icy winter that has enveloped it, and I'm reminded of memories from when I lived closed by.
The trip really began at the airport though, with the chaos of making sure my bags fit the new standards and that I could manage carrying everything on my own. I should add that while picking what I would take with me to Europe, I honestly thought I would be packing few things. Things turned out a bit different however, and I just hope that I'll figure out a way of getting everything back at the end of the semester. Regardless, I arrived in Hamburg mid-morning the 29th and Franzi picked me up with her friend Anna, whose mother is from Colombia and reminds me of Lorena.
Jetlag didn't hit until the evening, so we slept from 8:30pm until 8:30am. Overall, though, I haven't been too tired. We've done a lot of city-roaming and low-key hanging out. I did meet up with Julia and Martha yesterday for some coffee ,and tonight I'm meeting up with Marie for New Years, but I don't have any outrageous plans for the rest of my stay. I'm still excited to see what's changed and to visit my host-family, but I'm also getting nervous about what I'll find in France. Excited but nervous.
I'll post more later, but until then....tchüss!

Saturday, December 19, 2009

Un homme fraicais

I haven't quite started the trip and I'm already writing...but you'll soon see why.
Like I mentioned in my previous post, my studying in France is not only an old wish of mine, but also of my mother, aunts, uncle, cousins, etc. By physically being abroad, I am fulfilling the desires of many and I hope that by writing this blog they may see part of what I see, breathe some of the french air, and have a sensation of life in France.
This post, however, isn't particularly about me. Funny enough, it's about my mother. More precisely, my mother and her first love, a frenchman named Daniel, who lived in Colombia for two years. That's where the story begins, with a twenty-two year old version of my mother in Bogota meeting a mustaschioed, long-haired frenchman that swept her off her feet and stole her heart. Although I wasn't even in existence at this point, I feel like I was there as jealous neighbors peered out their windows when the bright-blue car Daniel had shipped from France pulled up to pick my mom up for dates and outings. The man who took my family on roadtrips and found thrill in life. I can imagine this intellectual who, according to my mother, loved to learn and equally loved Colombia. Two years, however, ellapsed as fast as one can imagine when love enchants two individuals, and Daniel returned to France.
The split isn't something we regularly talk about, but contact was eventually lost and their lives took different turns. I've always known about Daniel as the frenchie (by my step-dad), el frances, the intellectual, the man with the blue Pijot and the first love, but 26 years after leaving Colombia, I will meet Daniel and the same age my mother met him. To me, it's a funny concept to experience a now much older Daniel as my mother might have 26 years ago. More peculiar is that after years of trying to find this old-friend, only a month ago, after my plans to go to France were finalized, a friend of my mother's contacted her to talk about Daniel and the wonders of facebook. So, when I arrive in France I will meet Daniel and see where this story goes. Call it cheese, romantic, whatever you will, but how often do you get the chance to see who your mother fell in love with...
Until then, however, this nomad is 0-u-t. :)

So long, farewell, auf wiedersehen, goodbye!

I've decided to start the blog again. The impetus? France. On December 28th, I will once again hit the airways and embrace my nomad ways in the city of Rennes. The process isn't as simple as the previous sentence makes it sound though. Before actually starting my semester abroad, Germany awaits me. December 29th to January 3rd will be spent with family and friends in Deutschland! Hamburg, actually. The trip will be the first time I return to Germany since leaving in July 2007, which means that seeing old friend, my host family, and the area will be exciting and eventful. It's a packed schedule that I haven't quite planned out, but that I'm looking forward to.

The more uncertain part of my trip starts once I leave Germany for France. Before beginning the story, let me preface by stating that studying in France in the culmination of my childhood dream along with that of my parents, really my mother. I won't be in the city of love long enough, however, because my new 'home', although I'm not quite sure what that means anymore, will be Rennes. Pronounce it as if you had something nasty in the back of your throat. It lies 2 hours east of Paris on train in Bretagne (Brittany). Look at the map at the bottom of the blog and you'll get an idea of where it is. I'll be studying at l'Institut d'Etudes Politiques (Institute of Political Science) and living on my own, but there are plenty of unknowns still, like if anyone is showing me my new apt. or where orientation is. That makes the experience more exciting I suppose.

Regardless, I can't help but feel a touch melancholy when I think about what I'm leaving in the states. I should be used to leaving, but it feels heavier this time, if that makes any sense. Like prior traveling adventures, I've made some obvious goals for the next six months, learning francais, making friends, traveling, etc. I really just want to experience la vie francaise to the fullest....really test out if it lives up to what I've heard. I'm sure it will. Aside from those, I can't really pin point more detailed goals until I get there, but the wait isn't long.

Until later though, this nomad is 0-u-t.

Monday, July 27, 2009

Catching up...quickly

My infrequent writing makes me want to put into words everything I experience in between blogs. To post page upon page on how this country effects me. Impossible.
Since I last wrote, time has ticked away, leaving me with about two weeks of Indian-time. A few weeks ago we headed to Agra for the expected tour of the Taj Mahal. Before going, I was actually somewhat skeptical about the building, having heard it's beauty was exaggerating. After a train ride to Delhi from Varanasi and a four hour car ride to Agra, we made it in time to see a beautiful sunset at the Taj. It was smaller inside than I expected, but the weather added to the splendor of the sight. Other highlights in Agra were the Agra Fort and Fatehpur Sikri.
Our stay at the heart of the Mughal empire was very short. So, after a luxurious night at the Imperial Taj, we went back to Delhi and the next day to Varanasi.
Since, the last week has been a blurr. I've been with the two other girls living in the guesthouse quite a bit, exploring the city mostly. It's a lot of sweaty walking, because the rain has been almost nonexistant until tonight. It's the reason for the common power outages and the hot afternoons where people escape to their houses or shops to rest. In spite of the inconveniences, the friendliness and atmosphere in the city is incomparable. It has a rythmic breath that hypnotizes and wraps me in its sights, history (the little I know/understand), mystery.
Because my curiosity tells me there is more I should know about this place, I know I should come back. Better prepared, bookwise, I think.
This weekend, we are leaving the pilgrim center for Hinduism and heading to an important Buddhist center -- Bodh Gaya. The place where the Buddha was englightened.

Thursday, July 9, 2009

The time is Closing in...

I'm beginning to feel that my time in India is quickly coming to an end. Too quickly actually. The past few days I've talked to some friends who are leaving soon, and they say how their experience in India is complete. I don't think my experience is complete yet. There's still so much more I want to see and experience here. I found my niche, an unpredictable rhythm of meeting new people, of making relationships wtih the people who live here, getting lost in allies, and feeling at home.
Today I leave for Lucknow with a group who is here for two weeks. It's the capital of Uttar Pradesh and should be a very different city than Varanasi. We should meet some women involved in the feminist movement and, obviously, get a feel for the city.
I'll be back Monday to continue working. There's only about one month left for me in India and I already know I will be back. :)

Wednesday, July 1, 2009

Me and Banaras. Banaras and me

Sensory overload. It’s the way an author described her first experience in India. Although she was in a different city, it’s so easy to understand what she means. The amount of new sights and continuous honking hypnotize my eyes, forcing them to dart from spot to spot, admiring the beauty and the squalor of things. What I touch feels more intense, my nose smells a combination of sweet, spicy, fragrant, and repugnant smells that spark my interest and draw me to taste anything new, because the seven weeks I have left will go by too soon.

It is a country full of contrasts that excite me, anger me, and easily tug my emotions in polar opposites, leaving me breathless and ready for more. It’s an addicting cycle.
Meanwhile, I’m feeling much better than last week, thanks in part to the pharmaceutical industry. I’m not playing it safe with food because it’s too delicious and being in vegetarian heaven is not something I can take for granted. In addition to that, the weather has shifted and the rain and heat are fighting. Yesterday it finally rained for a decent amount of time. It seemed as if the monsoon had finally started, but today there is no rain again.
School started today and I finally have a clear plan as to what I will do the remainder of the time that I am at NIRMAN..I think. Two days during the week, I will spend teaching English and working in the library of the village school. The rest of the week I will spend at the city school doing library workshops, teaching English, working on fundraising, and learning Hindi. All of it is exciting and scary. It’s weird to think that I am in charge of planning and deciding what material to impart on someone else.
I should also get used to the fact that time is wind between my fingers, but I’m stubborn. There is more for me to see of the city, so I’ll leave, but give you view into what I see in the photogenic Kashi.


I went to the river and met Rossalie (?) for the second time yesterday. She sells flowers and cnadles to put in the rive in the morning (5 am), goes home to make recycled paper, and returns to the river in the evening.

Cricket, as I mentioned runs in the blood of all Indian boys. It's not hard to find 4-5 games of cricket between Assi Ghat and the main ghat.

An autorickshaw at night. I'm obsessed with taking pictures of them.


Water buffalo bathing in the Ganges. A man making ghee (clarified butter) by the Assi River. Putting the river to sleep at night. A ceremony that takes at least one hour if not more. Later, the guy put ashes on my forehead and promised they not only were magical, but that they would let me think more clearly. He is covered in ashes because this ceremony is done by one of the two burning ghats.

Friday, June 26, 2009

Oi

With only a few days left before students come to school, you can imagine the amount of noise and preparation going on at the school. Not only are the builders hurrying to finish the new addition to the school, but ten new teachers are being trained, others are making lesson plans, cleaning the rooms, or patching up anything that’s been broken. The noise isn’t any different, but people are here long after I return from the village school and begin work early too.
The new addition to the school will not be finished as planned, but it’s amazing to see how fast all the rooms go up. In the month that I’ve been here, workers have literally built about 6 new rooms for the school. It’s expected that in mid-July they will be ready for use.
School being only a week away also means that this is my last week of teaching at the village school. I know I will miss the students even though it will free up my afternoons. It will give me a chance to explore the city and maybe find a concrete research topic. As far as my well-being goes, that’s another story. I arrived in India thinking that I would surpass the usual ‘Delhi-Belly’ or other travelers’ illnesses, but I was wrong. After arriving from my week-long trip, I immediately caught a case of the Delhi-Belly, also known to others as Montezuma’s Revenge (but I’m not in Mexico, am I?). I didn’t do anything about it because I figured it was a matter of toughing it out and letting the bug pass, but this wasn’t the case. Wednesday, I finally hit a low and thought it might be a good idea to tell someone. The clinic across the street, not to be confused with the one on the corner, or the thousands of others in the city (you’d be surprised how well-equipped this city is with doctors), prescribed me some pills which I am now reluctantly taking along with electrolyte water. I kindly suggest for any reader never to try electrolyte water as it is possibly one of the most disgusting drinkable liquids. This also means that I have to survive on a pretty simple diet free of spices, fried things, un-fresh things, and hope to be well sometime before I go home.

Cycle Rickshaw

Before continuing to read the rest of the blog, I suggest you google a cycle rickshaw. That, along with auto rickshaws, is the main forms of public transportation in Varanasi. You can be sure to find one or multiple rickshaws on any corner or shady spot throughout the city. The male drivers might be laying in the rickshaw, napping, chewing on pan (a sort of chewing tobacco popular in India), or waiting to ask “Rickshaw ma’am? Where are you going?” Most of the time, I don’t use their services because I would rather walk, but they come in handy if you’re in a hurry.
That’s not the point of the blog, however. For some time now, I had toyed with the idea of learning to drive one of these things. It looked easy enough. I figured that if the driver got enough momentum to pull the entire cart, then the rest would be just like riding a bicycle. On Sunday, I tried my luck with one group of drivers. Once I got them to understand that I would pay them to let me drive them around, they laughed, but agreed to let me try. Their laughing only increased when I couldn’t go further than a few feet. I gave up after some time, but tried again later with a different driver, only to get a few more laughs out of the men.
These contraptions look easy enough to drive but that is WRONG. The seats are so high I can’t reach the pedals and driving in Varanasi traffic is a fear I should first overcome. Anyway, my goal before I leave is to drive an auto rickshaw down a street.

Saturday, June 20, 2009

Escaping the heat





After Amritsar, I took an overnight train to Dehradun, where I then hopped on a bus (or squeezed in) and headed for the hill station, Mussoorie. The first signs of traffic the amount of people on the bus gave me the impression that I was not the only wanting to escape the strong summer heat. I was right.



Mussoorie is a popular vacationing spot for Indians, especially those from Delhi (it's only 7 hours away). That being said, the hotels were very expensive by Indian standards and I ended up in a guesthouse at the end of town with a great view, but primitive facilities. It's all part of the experience I think.



I found that Mussoorie was nice for enjoying the weather, taking walks, and people watching, but it has become very congested and I think some visitors have forgotten to take care of the beautiful landscape. Although some steps have been taken accross many cities in India to reduce the use of plastic bags and to better manage waste, it's still evident that the problem is not solved. By Wednesday, I returned to Varanasi, after spending about 20 hrs. on the train and began teaching again on Thursday.

This is a picture of the class I teach in the village. More pictures of them later.

June is almost over, which is very surprising, yet I feel like there is much more for me to discover in this city. The school will be much different once their summer is over, which is the first of July, so I am looking forward to meeting more of them. I'm signing off until later, maybe I can post some pictures :).


This is one of the Buddhist temples in Sarnath

Friday, June 12, 2009

All the way to the Golden Temple

On Tuesday of this week, I packed and got everything ready for my week trip around Amritsar, Dehradun, and Mussoorie that started Wednesday. Since it'd be my first train ride completely alone in India, I felt pretty excited. An autorickshaw dropped me off at the station at about 9 and I was left in a daze, being unable to understand the train system. After some very confusing conversations and A LOT of help from various men, I found out that my train had a 2 hr. delay. I waited...and continued waiting when the delay became a 2.5 hr. delay, to a 3 hr. delay, and a 4.5 hr. delay. Note to self, Indian trains are almost always delayed. Yes, eventually it arrived and after a very comfortable 24 hrs., I arrived in Amritsar.
Being here is VERY different than Varanasi. There are police everywhere and signs promoting environmental awareness. It is very obvious that I'm still in India, but it's also more quiet than Varanasi and people confuse me with being Indian if I don't open my mouth, which I take as a compliment.
My first goal was to find a place to sleep, and after searching for a hotel, I got a decent (maybe) deal at a guesthouse. For about $10 a night, I got a big bed, ac, tv, and private shower/bathroom. Not bad until I met some girls who told me I could stay at the actual Golden Temple for a simple donation. Pilgrims flock to the Golden Temple to not only take in its beauty, but those of Sikh religion try to make it to this holy spot at least once in their lifetimes. Not only is this place beautiful, it also hosts thousands for free or a very small charge. On top of this, volunteers cook around the clock to feed over 40,000 people a day. We went into the feeding hall to experience this process and were surprised at the efficiency and the taste of the food. It wasn't anything rated with five stars, but the chapati (bread), dal (lentil soup), and rice were prettty tasty.
Other things to do in Amritsar include the Jallingwalla (sp?) memorial, where thousands of Indians were fired at by the British without advance notice or way to escape, and watching the lowering of the flag and closing of the gate at the India Pakistan border. Since I've accomplished all of this, I'm ready to head out tonight to Dehradun and up into the Himalayas.

Thursday, June 11, 2009

An exciting Sunday

Since arriving in India, as I've already mentioned, I've become quite the early riser, not because of the continuous honking that has become an expected background noise, but because it's simply nice to enjoy the day before the temperature rises. On Sunday, I woke up pretty early to accompany Nita ma'am, my internship advisor, and her mother to the most famous temple in Varanasi -- Vishwanath Temple. It's a temple to Lord Shiva, the creator. We stood in semi-single-file line without shoes and proceeded through small walkways until we reached the main altar. Hundreds of people came, some from villages and abroad as well, to give their offerings of milk, flowers, and even money. You wouldn't expect patience considering the importance of the temple, but until reaching the center of worship, people were fairly calm. The amount of police stationed there probably helps though, as it was destroyed during the Muslim rule.
This visit, which Hindus try to make at least once in their lifetimes, went pretty fast for me and after a quick breakfast at home, I headed to Sarnath with a family whose kids attend and work at the school. I wish whoever takes the time to read this could really see what Sarnath is like. Although small, it is home to one of the Stupas, many Buddhist temples, and is also the place where the Buddha gave his frist sermon. It's only 10 K away from my current 'home', so it was quite easy to visit but I want to go back. Some of the artifacts there date back to 5 BC.!
After visiting Sarnath, I went to the movies with my Nita ma'am, her daughter, and mother. My first Hindi film and first mall experience. I guess malls here are a big hangout place for kids and families. It was a pretty eventful Sunday and it left me incredibly exhausted, so it wasn't long before I fell asleep at home.

Saturday, June 6, 2009

A walk on the River Ganga

I decided to wake up early today to get a feel for the morning routine in Varanasi. What better place to do this than the river. At 5 am, I woke up and started heading to Asi ghat, which is closest to the Nirman Center, only to realize that I was about one hour too late. A lot of people were already at the river! I made sure to make a mental note that Indians are early risers...of course, the sun starts shining at 6 am and goes non-stop until 6pm. So, I missed the beginning, but was determined to observe for the remaining 1-2hrs.
It took me about one hour to walk from Asi ghat to the ghat at Godolia Market, and the experience was unlike any other. Yards upon yards of brightly colored and patterened saris lines the steps as individuals of all ages made their way to bathe in the river, unaware of the curious looks from tourists passing on boats. In front of one of the ghats, children lay flat on the ground as a man preached to them from a microphone and an ashened saddhu carried out a ritual. Drums beat in the background of cricket games, India's all-time favorite sport, and women walked in single-file to wash clothes in the river.
For two hours, I walked in a trance, taking in all I could of this normal routine, thankful that I can take par.

Friday, June 5, 2009

Week One

I've officially been in Varanasi for a week now and am beginning to understand the difference between Indian summers and summers in Indiana-- it's 106 degrees F here. My body has constantly produced sweat since the plane landed. I did get here safely and spend about a day in Delhi walking around before coming to Varanasi/Benares on an overnight train. My bag did not make the plane and I was forced (cough..cough) to buy some clothes in Delhi.
My first few days in the city, I spent with a group that was here from Canada. It was a nice transition because we worked in the school together and they let me do some activities with them. Once they left, I was sort of on my own for a few days, which was no problem because this city is teeming with new and exciting things to both do and see. Like I mentioned earlier, Benares is located along the Ganges, so if you walk along the ghats, you can find all sorts of temples, saddhus, food, music, vendors, etc. Each of them is a little bit different and tiny streets located behind the ghats lead you to even more stores and other findings.
The people are equally friendly and hospitable, especially here at Nirman. I am staying at the guesthouse and take all my meals here. Since the students are still on summer break, I am in charge of teaching 2 ESL classes (one in the city school and one in the country school) and working in the library, which needs catalogued and organized. Both classes are completely different, as are the schools, one being mainly an adult class (city school).
This past week alone has gone by very quickly, and I wonder if the rest of the summer will be like this. Although the country is full of friendly people and an incredible culture, the poverty is also astounding. For example, we went to a pre-wedding party at a village of untouchables this past week and it felt like walking into a completely different century. Yet, despite their socioeconomic status, they warmly welcomed us and entertained us. It was humbling.
I obviously can't post everything I'm doing, but I'll try to post again in a few days. Until then...namaste :)
Ana

Monday, May 18, 2009

One week away...

After months of planning and long waiting, I will finally depart for India next Tuesday, May 26th. Rather than sending long mass e-mails to everyone I know, I decided to give blogging a try. As I am new to this, I'm not sure how interesting it will be to read, but when and if I have access to internet in India, I will keep anyone interested updated on my travels.

For those of you unaware of what exactly I will be doing on the opposite side of the globe here goes:

I will arrive in New Delhi, India and travel to Varanasi, a city of 1.3 million people where I am interning for an NGO called the Nirman Center. This is a nonprofit organization that provides equal learning opportunities for children, youth, and adults. I am told that I will be working as an English and Social Studies teacher as well as helping with administration in the school, but might also travel to other locations in order to help with theater/creativity camps. Along with this, I plan on doing research concerning the effects of religion and globalization on the Indian community. Along with working at the school, I will also be housed at the school's guesthouse where meals are also provided.

Going to India has been a dream of mine for quite some time, so this opportunity is one I'm very excited about. However, I'm not afraid to admit that I am a bit nervous. Although past experiences have exposed me to different levels of poverty and various uncomfortable living situations, I am not sure what this trip will show me. I hope the training I have will help me be an effective teacher and that I can soak in as much as I can about the culture and people of India.

DO keep in touch if possible. Three months is a long time and I do love a good letter. Okay, even a bad letter is accepted as long as I get some love from home :). My e-mail is abaracal@butler.edu and I will try to send an address and/or phone once I find out more on where I'll be.