Monday, July 27, 2009

Catching up...quickly

My infrequent writing makes me want to put into words everything I experience in between blogs. To post page upon page on how this country effects me. Impossible.
Since I last wrote, time has ticked away, leaving me with about two weeks of Indian-time. A few weeks ago we headed to Agra for the expected tour of the Taj Mahal. Before going, I was actually somewhat skeptical about the building, having heard it's beauty was exaggerating. After a train ride to Delhi from Varanasi and a four hour car ride to Agra, we made it in time to see a beautiful sunset at the Taj. It was smaller inside than I expected, but the weather added to the splendor of the sight. Other highlights in Agra were the Agra Fort and Fatehpur Sikri.
Our stay at the heart of the Mughal empire was very short. So, after a luxurious night at the Imperial Taj, we went back to Delhi and the next day to Varanasi.
Since, the last week has been a blurr. I've been with the two other girls living in the guesthouse quite a bit, exploring the city mostly. It's a lot of sweaty walking, because the rain has been almost nonexistant until tonight. It's the reason for the common power outages and the hot afternoons where people escape to their houses or shops to rest. In spite of the inconveniences, the friendliness and atmosphere in the city is incomparable. It has a rythmic breath that hypnotizes and wraps me in its sights, history (the little I know/understand), mystery.
Because my curiosity tells me there is more I should know about this place, I know I should come back. Better prepared, bookwise, I think.
This weekend, we are leaving the pilgrim center for Hinduism and heading to an important Buddhist center -- Bodh Gaya. The place where the Buddha was englightened.

Thursday, July 9, 2009

The time is Closing in...

I'm beginning to feel that my time in India is quickly coming to an end. Too quickly actually. The past few days I've talked to some friends who are leaving soon, and they say how their experience in India is complete. I don't think my experience is complete yet. There's still so much more I want to see and experience here. I found my niche, an unpredictable rhythm of meeting new people, of making relationships wtih the people who live here, getting lost in allies, and feeling at home.
Today I leave for Lucknow with a group who is here for two weeks. It's the capital of Uttar Pradesh and should be a very different city than Varanasi. We should meet some women involved in the feminist movement and, obviously, get a feel for the city.
I'll be back Monday to continue working. There's only about one month left for me in India and I already know I will be back. :)

Wednesday, July 1, 2009

Me and Banaras. Banaras and me

Sensory overload. It’s the way an author described her first experience in India. Although she was in a different city, it’s so easy to understand what she means. The amount of new sights and continuous honking hypnotize my eyes, forcing them to dart from spot to spot, admiring the beauty and the squalor of things. What I touch feels more intense, my nose smells a combination of sweet, spicy, fragrant, and repugnant smells that spark my interest and draw me to taste anything new, because the seven weeks I have left will go by too soon.

It is a country full of contrasts that excite me, anger me, and easily tug my emotions in polar opposites, leaving me breathless and ready for more. It’s an addicting cycle.
Meanwhile, I’m feeling much better than last week, thanks in part to the pharmaceutical industry. I’m not playing it safe with food because it’s too delicious and being in vegetarian heaven is not something I can take for granted. In addition to that, the weather has shifted and the rain and heat are fighting. Yesterday it finally rained for a decent amount of time. It seemed as if the monsoon had finally started, but today there is no rain again.
School started today and I finally have a clear plan as to what I will do the remainder of the time that I am at NIRMAN..I think. Two days during the week, I will spend teaching English and working in the library of the village school. The rest of the week I will spend at the city school doing library workshops, teaching English, working on fundraising, and learning Hindi. All of it is exciting and scary. It’s weird to think that I am in charge of planning and deciding what material to impart on someone else.
I should also get used to the fact that time is wind between my fingers, but I’m stubborn. There is more for me to see of the city, so I’ll leave, but give you view into what I see in the photogenic Kashi.


I went to the river and met Rossalie (?) for the second time yesterday. She sells flowers and cnadles to put in the rive in the morning (5 am), goes home to make recycled paper, and returns to the river in the evening.

Cricket, as I mentioned runs in the blood of all Indian boys. It's not hard to find 4-5 games of cricket between Assi Ghat and the main ghat.

An autorickshaw at night. I'm obsessed with taking pictures of them.


Water buffalo bathing in the Ganges. A man making ghee (clarified butter) by the Assi River. Putting the river to sleep at night. A ceremony that takes at least one hour if not more. Later, the guy put ashes on my forehead and promised they not only were magical, but that they would let me think more clearly. He is covered in ashes because this ceremony is done by one of the two burning ghats.